Forever Chemicals: Hidden Dangers in Everyday Beauty

Per- and polyfluoroalkyl chemicals are everywhere—in our homes, our clothing, the personal care products we use and in our bodies. Postdoctoral researcher Amber Hall explains the dangers PFAS pose, especially to developing humans, and offers suggestions for avoiding them.

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So Amber, you recently published a study which found that using certain products during pregnancy, like makeup, lotion or nail polish, can expose babies to dangerous chemicals. What brought you to that subject?

Hall: I grew up near a chemical company. It was five minutes away from our home and we would drive by there every day. And when you have these giant smokestacks and you see stuff being emitted every day, I think the next natural question is, what is that? And is that okay?

After working in a hospital for a while, I realized I wanted to make a bigger difference at the population level, doing more population level science, which is what led me into epidemiology.

So instead of patient by patient, you wanted to make an impact on a whole population of people.

Exactly. Biostatistics is one of the first things I fell in love with. I loved the idea that one person can tell you something is wrong, but then when you have a hundred, and sometimes a thousand people volunteer their time so that you have the opportunity to say X is associated with Y, or we do see an association with these chemicals and this health effect. That can make a really big impact. 

Which led you to look at PFAS. What are they, exactly?

PFAS is an acronym and it stands for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances. And this is a very large chemical class, so a bunch of different types of chemicals. They're known for their oil, water, and heat resistant properties. So things that are water resistant, stain resistant, heat resistant, nonstick surfaces like Teflon pans, for example, things of that nature will often contain PFAS.

We're worried about them because we have found associations with a lot of different health effects: Kidney and testicular cancers and different thyroid disruptions for example. In children it's been associated with decreased vaccine response, low birth weight. And then also, it takes a really long time to leave our bodies. A lot of chemicals we're exposed to, they leave within a matter of a few hours or a few days. With PFAS, it takes several years. 

How widespread are these chemicals?

PFAS have been found on all seven continents, including Antarctica. So they are very widespread and they are considered ubiquitous, which is a fancy way of saying simply they're everywhere. They have been found in the blood of 95 percent of the U. S. population, and that is only testing for four of the PFAS compounds.

Additionally, studies have found that PFAS can be transmitted through the placenta. So during pregnancy, if a pregnant person is exposed to PFAS, that can then go through the placenta and reach the child. And pregnancy is just such a sensitive window of development. You have so many things that are happening, so many processes that are occurring to create a human being that disruptions during that time can often have a greater impact than they would if you were exposed later in life.

So when you found out that PFAS were used in items that pregnant people might use like makeup, hair dye, nail polish, perfumes and lotion, what did you do?  

Well what we didn't know was whether or not exposure to PFAS from these products was actually getting inside of us. And that is the question that this study really set out to answer.

So we gave our subjects questionnaires at four different time points, and many of those questionnaires didn't just get at do you use the product, but how often do you use the product. Whether or not you never use it, you sometimes use it, or you frequently use it. So we could get at whether or not these usage habits were impacting their PFAS concentrations at specific points in time.

What we learned was that many of the items that we tested we found that higher use of these items was associated with higher PFAS levels in both blood and the human milk.

A woman in her sophomore year of college, in her twenties, isn't really going to think about her nail care products use and how that relates to her unborn child a decade from now. So we really need to take a step back and think about mitigating exposure to these, what I would consider dangerous chemicals. And I personally would like to see some regulatory policies and some actions around that.

Amber Hall Postdoctoral research associate
 
Woman smiles at camera

What advice would you give to people who are pregnant or thinking about conceiving to help protect themselves?

That’s a good question. Unfortunately this goes back to the biological half lives of PFAS because they can remain in our bodies for so long that if you're thinking of having a baby in the next year, it's often too late. We really need to take steps earlier in order to mitigate the exposure. And so I think the best advice would be to anyone who thinks they may get pregnant in the next 10 years to really try to mitigate exposure to PFAS. 

What should they be looking for?

There are common indicators in these items, words like “perfluoro” or “fluoro.”  So if you see perfluoro, or fluoro, then that means that they likely contain a PFAS compound.

Is it realistic to be expecting women to go without all of these products?

I wouldn't say so. I don't think people like to change their habits, especially if it's something they enjoy. I think one step that people could actively take to at least lower their exposures is checking the back of the products to see if it contains a PFAS ingredient or a PFAS chemical.

I think it also really speaks to the need for policy and regulatory action with relation to these chemicals, because what is the average age of pregnancy now, like close to 30? A woman in her sophomore year of college, in her twenties, isn't really going to think about her nail care products use and how that relates to her unborn child a decade from now. 

So we really need to take a step back and think about mitigating exposure to these, what I would consider dangerous chemicals. And I personally would like to see some regulatory policies and some actions around that.

Is there any chance that change is on the way?

Legislators are starting to pay attention to this. So there is a House Representative Bill, the No PFAS in Cosmetics Act, which is at the House right now. And then also Rhode Island has passed a law about PFAS in cosmetics. And so they're wanting to, over the next several years, not allow PFAS and cosmetic products.

One good thing about state regulations is it often pushes for product level change. For example, when California enacts certain bans against certain chemicals, if a company wants to keep selling to California and they don't want to make special products for that state, it forces them to change their practices so that they can sell to the United States as a whole, which It's a pretty cool thing to me because it shows how even something at the state level can really drive a national change.

I think pushing for policy change would be ideal. But there are still active steps that you can take: Reading the label on your clothing, reading the label on your makeup, looking at the backs of the products that you're buying and making sure that they don't contain PFAS as an ingredient.